Sausages: Local heroes
Say what you like about the European Union, but food and drink producers throughout its reach have been snapping up the geographical indicators: Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed. These defend the names of regional foods across the continent and Melton Mowbray Pork Pies, Welsh lamb and Orkney beef are just a few of the UK meat products that enjoy protection.
This privilege can give a great boost to local producers but can also create some friction with producers outside the approved area and processors abroad. One sausage-related example of this is Germany's protests over Polish bids to register the kabanosy sausage as an EU-protected local product, claiming this would violate the rights of its own Rhineland sausage producers.
In this country, the Lincolnshire sausage has grabbed headlines over the proposal of a voluntary 'sausage tax'. Lincolnshire butcher shop customers are being asked to contribute 5p each time they buy Lincolnshire sausages, with the money to be used to build a fighting fund, including legal advice, for the application to protect the Lincolnshire sausage. The Lincolnshire Sausage Association claims a handful of companies have objected to the application mostly large-scale food producers and a company which it claims does not even use pork in its 'Lincolnshire sausages'.
But the lesson here for butchers is that trading on that buzzword, 'local', is a surefire way to success with your sausages.
With all the profits made by the major supermarkets, a butcher's USP is that he is part of the fabric of the community and will be a familiar face. One example of this is Stockport market butcher Simon Orman, who has created a local sausage to commemorate the 750th anniversary of the market using local Cheshire pork with Robinsons Unicorn ale.
The bigger the better
A number of independent butchers this year have seen developments in their sausage line being sold in supermarkets and they are an inspiration to any butcher David can keep up with Goliath and sometimes Goliath can even give David a helping hand.
This year Paul Turner, of humble A Turner & Sons Family Butchers in Aldershot, Hampshire, has seen his brand of sausages stocked in Tesco for a good cause. "It started out as a bit of fun but it has grown into a monster and is all-consuming," says Paul. Through his Hair of the Hog and Pickled Pig sausages, Paul is raising money for military charity Help for Heroes (H4H) and, from February to very recently, his branded sausages were in 25 Tesco stores.
To commemorate the occasion, a special launch event was held at Turner & Sons' local Tesco store in Aldershot where a field kitchen, similar to those used to feed troops in action, was set up in the car park. There, army chefs cooked up the new sausage varieties and served them with mashed potato for customers to try. Customers were asked to donate £1.50 for each meal served, the proceeds going to H4H.
With his brother, Kevin, Alan has been selling the sausages in their shop for eight years and has been serving the military community for generations. His grandfather, Alfred, served with the Royal Army Service Corps for 12 years, working in an abattoir. In 1956, when Alfred left the army, he decided to open a butcher's shop from the family home still their premises today.
In addition to the contract with Tesco, DBC Foodservice is also supplying the sausages into various military bases across the country. "We're just moving it on now and pushing it hard," adds Alan. Turner & Sons outsourced the production of the sausages to Westway Food and Alan said, without its backing, Tesco would not have taken an interest in the initiative. Alan adds he is now in talks with another major retailer with trials at Morrisons.
Other businesses have also started out as small butchers' shops and have grown into larger companies while still maintaining their high street outlets. Edwards of Conwy is set to relaunch its sausage range into the supermarket sector with a fresh new look. The prize-winning bangers will be available in about 130 Tesco, Asda, Morrisons, Sainsbury's and other stores throughout Wales.
Ieuan Edwards, who runs Edwards of Conwy, estimates he produces about 750 miles of sausage every year, with around 40 different sausages recipes.
The business has grown from a traditional high-street butcher's outlet over the years, but Ieuan still keeps the shop at the heart of operations. "Generally speaking, we use our shop in Conwy as our research and development centre. We test out our new products in the shop and our customers soon tell us if they are any good."
Dicksons, which is a chain of shops in the north east, has also gone from strength to strength this year. As part of the Tesco Local initiative, the South Shields family firm introduced its branded Cumberland-style, Lincolnshire-style and pork sausages in packs of six to Tesco shoppers. The sausages have been made available in 19 Tesco shops across the north east from March.
The company has also announced intentions to increase its South Shields production facilities as part of a £1m investment in extending its factory. It will add 575sq m to its existing South Tyneside factory and bakery in a bid to grow its wholesale division.
Powters, which owns a retail shop in Newmarket, Suffolk, has also revamped its sausage packaging and the range will include five brand new varieties this autumn.
Powters MD Grant Powter says: "Consumer demand is for quality British products, which deliver real freshness and flavour.
"The traditional quality and superior taste of Powters sausages, combined with the brand new premium look, gives retailers a real opportunity for increased profits. This is particularly pertinent during the pre-Christmas period, when demand for Powters sausages typically increases by more than 150% and retailers often underestimate stock requirements."
Joining the Powters Newmarket sausage, Powters 1881 sausage, and the Powters Chipolata sausage, the five new varieties are Cider & Sage, Gluten Free, Low Fat, Spicy Spanish and Real Ale. The sausages are also sold in independents in the Cambridge and Bury St Edmonds area alongside the butchers' own pork fare, according to Grant.
Grant adds that the shop brings out new products on a regular basis so the new range could be launched in record time as it has already been sold in the shop. Powters, Dicksons, Edwards of Conwy and A Turner & Sons vary on the scale of operations but they all demonstrate true independent butchery spirit flourishing in the modern world.
Foodservice for thought
In the foodservice sector, current figures from market researcher CREST show sales of sausages rose 2.6% to £542.8m in the year to March 2010 and represent 10.3% of the value of all proteins sold out of home. At the same time, the overall sales out of home declined by 1% and the footfall fell by 3.7%, though spend rose by 2.8%. Many butchers sell sausage products to local pubs and restaurants and there is still much more businesses can do.
Bpex foodservice trade manager Tony Goodger says: "Sales of sausages have been driven by the increase in pub chains offering value-led meal deals, part of which invariably include sausage and mash; continued growth in the budget hotel sector, where breakfast including sausage is part of the overall package; and innovation from the sausage manufacturers who increasingly recognise foodservice as being an attractive market and who are forming direct relationships with the large foodservice operators and distributors.
"One very innovative pub chain is Orchid, which has linked up with a pig farm that also makes sausages, Dingley Dell. It features its producers on its menus and, for example, currently has 'Dingley Dell Pork & Herb Sausages with homemade mash, crispy onions, peas and gravy' on offer at £7.95.
"I firmly believe that the way forward to further develop sausages will be for the link between the sausage and the farmer to be made in front of the customer or chef.
"I know of a number of pig farmers who either directly supply sausages to foodservice outlets or, like Dingley Dell, supply to foodservice distributors or catering butchers who in turn feature the named product either on the menu or on the product list."
Goodger adds that sausages are not just seen as a staple product for the morning but are now consistently being served in foodservice mid-morning and evenings as well as lunchtime. Goodger would now like to see the catering sector investing in more than just one type of sausage, such as a breakfast sausage, rather than buying a uniform sausage and serving it all day, which could create opportunities for butchers to supply them.
Goodger also feels there should be more co-operation with restaurant chefs and their local butchers in supplying sausages for their outlets. If you are not in contact with your local restaurants, now could be a great opportunity.
Giving sausages a ten
Publicising your sausages is crucial for maximising sales and it will soon be that time of the year when the 13th annual British Sausage Week gets under way from 1 November. This popular event is a sales-boosting opportunity for all parts of the supply chain, claims Bpex.
In 2009, the week generated £17m worth of media coverage, says Bpex, and the campaign reached an audience of 450m; that's potentially every UK citizen seeing or hearing about British Sausage Week seven times.
A packed programme will ensure that this year is the best ever, says Bpex, with plenty of high-profile activity to promote quality sausages, such as those that are sourced from an assured supply chain including the Red Tractor scheme from Assured Food Standards.
The highlight of the week will be a competition to find the best bangers in the country, which also celebrates the taste, quality and rich diversity of the great British sausage.
Entries have already flooded in, says Bpex and, with judging currently underway, the finalists will be announced shortly. Cook-offs and winners' presentations will take place in selected regions around the UK between 1 and 5 November, headed up by the Sausage Week celebrity and guest judge Craig Revel Horwood. The Strictly Come Dancing judge and star choreographer will not only be handing out the prestigious awards but also generating headlines for Bpex and increasing awareness of British Sausage Week and the many quality assured varieties available.
"The great British banger has so much to offer and I can't wait to get on the road and judge the best of the best bangers out there," says Revel Horwood. "I'm looking forward to seeing what's on offer, I'm a tough judge so my expectations are high."
Competition organiser and Bpex butchery and product development manager Keith Fisher adds: "The competition is always hotly contested, attracting hundreds of entries from butchers, manufacturers and retailers and this year has been no exception. We have seen a vast array of excellent sausages, making it a very tough call for the judging panel to choose the finalists. There really are many 'star sausages' on sale across the country."
In preparation for British Sausage Week, Fisher has also been displaying his sausage-making skills in front of the camera, as part of a new training video.
As Fisher went through the motions of making a traditional butcher's sausage, a film crew was on hand to capture the process. The finished video is being produced for use on www.lovepork.co.uk during and in the run-up to British Sausage Week.
Fisher said: "Sausage-making is a time-honoured butchery tradition and what better time to show this than during British Sausage Week when the nation celebrates its love for the British banger. The video will encourage greater awareness of how sausages are produced and encourage consumers to try their local, traditional butcher's banger."
Butchers can also take advantage of the freely available promotional material from Bpex, the organisations adds. Butchers' kits containing posters, recipe booklets and window vinyls are available on request. Mailers will be issued and kits distributed on a first-come, first-served basis. Butchers can also take advantage of ideas and advice to increase their own publicity during British Sausage Week. Sausage tastings, fundraising events, promotions and celebratory menus are all ways to get involved.
Foodservice ultimate test
Judging is under way for the best quality sausage in the catering sector with Bpex's 'Foodservice Sausage of the Year'.
The competition, now in its eighth year, aims to recognise and reward the range of quality pork sausages the foodservice sector has to offer, with chefs and catering suppliers battling it out to produce the most innovative sausage.
Bpex says quality is of increasing importance when it comes to sausages, and sourcing assured pork such as that reared to the Assured Food Standards scheme and carrying the Red Tractor mark will provide a quality guarantee, as well as confirmation of traceability, country of origin and high standards of animal welfare.
Bpex foodservice trade manager Tony Goodger says: "No matter what the occasion or type of venue, quality sausages made from assured pork remain a firm favourite with diners. This is a great opportunity to gain recognition for your sausages, and the awards are a great publicity tool to boost interest and sales particularly during British Sausage Week which follows shortly after."
From traditional styles to speciality flavours and innovative recipes for specific markets, there will be five category awards: Traditional Pork Sausage, Speciality Pork Sausage, Best Pub Pork Sausage, Best Innovative Pork Sausage and Best Pork Sausage.
The deadline has already passed, but the three finalists from each category will be put forward to take part in a grand final at Butchers Hall, London, on 22 October, where the winners will be announced.
Sausage winner 2009/2010: Allan Bennett, Allan Bennett Butchers, Codsall, Wolverhampton
Expert sausage-maker Allan Bennett celebrated success after walking away with the top title of Champion of Champions for the second time last November.
Allan's pork and marmalade sausage wowed the judges and beat off competition from at least 20 other champion sausage-makers at MTJ's annual contest in London, where he had previously won the award in 2004.
"I said to my son Steven the day before (the competition), this marmalade sausage will win. I got the idea a number of years ago, while judging another competition. At first I thought, pork and marmalade? That won't work. But then I thought they're both breakfast favourites, so why not?"
Unfortunately, first attempts at the sausage did not prove successful with customers, and Allan forgot about the concept. However, he decided to revisit the sausage to enter it into the Stafford Show, adding orange zest to the mix to bring out the flavour of the marmalade and, as the results show, hit gold.
Sausage winner 2009/2010: Tristan Meier, H Dayus Family Butchers, Worcester
Worcestershire butcher Tristan Meier secured the Bpex Product Evaluation Championship with his pork, honey and wholegrain mustard sausage in June.
"It was trial and error different weights, different ingredients so the balance was right. We've won several competitions with the sausage and it has been on sale for the past 18 months. It sells nearly as well as our traditional pork sausage, so it's our most established variety sausage and does very well," says Tristan.
In the past, H Dayus Family Butchers has entered five roadshows with 12 category wins, two overall champion awards and four entries at MTJ's Champion of Champions.
Sausage winner 2009/2010: Simon Haigh, Hinchliffe's Butchers, Huddersfield
Hinchliffe's Butchers' Thick Pork Sausage beat 14 other competitors in the final of Foodservice Pork Sausage of the Year and sales of the sausage are said to have been boosted since the company triumphed in October last year.
"All of our sausages are made to a particular standard and are popular with local pubs and restaurants but the awards really add an extra element," says Hinchliffe's Simon Haigh. "Customers want to try the latest award-winning produce and then keep coming back for more after all, it's good for their business too."
The Thick Pork Sausage came second in the traditional pork sausage category, but won the vote for the overall prize, which the business also won in 2007.
Sausage winner 2009/2010: Craig Douglas, JC Douglas, St Boswells
JC Douglas in St Boswells was crowned 2010 Scottish Beef Sausage Champion in July.
Having started in the industry with David Palmer in Jedburgh, Craig Douglas bought a business in St Boswells in June 2006. Since then business has steadily picked up, but the major boost came in May 2009, when he won the Pork Sausage title. Craig says he will be doing more promotion on local radio after this second championship award.
"Customers travel from all over the Borders; delivery men and others who are travelling up the A68 hear our advert on Radio Borders and detour to buy sausages," says Craig.
The competition organised by the Scottish Federation of Meat Traders was judged regionally in May, with the regional winner and runner-up both going through to the Scottish final, judged at the Braehead Cook School.
The 10 finalists in each competition were visited on 8 July. Their products were purchased by mystery shoppers and taken to the Braehead Cook School at Kilmarnock on 9 July.
The judges for the final were Kevin MacGillvray (Marine Hotel, Troon), Duncan McKay (Western House Hotel, Ayr), Andrea Christie (wife of SFMTA President Stuart), Steve Doherty (Braehead Cook School) and Moira Stalker from the Scottish Food & Drink Federation.
Steve Derrick, sales development manager, Lucas Ingredients, presented Craig with the award.
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